I stopped counting calories the day I turned into a food blogger. Even my gym membership followed suit a few months after. However, I had always been conscious that fat was not good and must be avoided, despite failing for a thousand times. I didn’t know what I was missing out on until I visited FAT Restaurant, the newest destination in Bonifacio Global City for food so unabashedly fatty by design.
Judging from its simple façade, it was quite difficult to discern what’s waiting inside FAT. Even the stripped-down interiors are as unassuming, but all these elements worked perfectly with the visually eventful dishes. Starting with a bowl of Bar Mix with 12 kinds of spiced nuts and clarified butter, I knew immediately that tastier things were yet to come!
Headed by Chef Mikel Zaguirre, FAT believes that fat is anything but bad. Imagine your sisig without that smoky grease, or steak without your desired marbling. Now you get the idea, so it’s time to present you the Green Tea Chicharon, honestly the biggest piece of fat I’ve ever laid my hands on. Home-cooked the conventional way, its magic relies in the Green Tea Salt that complements the sharp flavors of vinegar and pickled dip.
Don’t judge too quickly because there’s more to FAT than the guilty pleasure it is, as the mains are absolutely worthy of respect, if not 100 percent approval from health conscious diners. In fact, the Moroccan Spiced Chicken served on top of Spanakopita (spinach pie) was something I wouldn’t have shared with anyone. It was deeply flavorful from the glittery skin to the tender meat. The Spanakopita was extremely tasty as well, but its herby flavor went well with the dish.
It’s also easy to love the equally sinful Porchetta, because duh: porchetta, plus the Mushroom Ragout beneath it gave each mouthful a palatable texture. As if this dish wasn’t sinful enough, I was stunned upon the sight of the Bacon Jam (yes!), which added a bit of sweetness to the savory experience.
However, the Pork Ears En Croute did not appeal much to the Sisig-lover in me. It’s an interesting ensemble of Sisig on an oily crusted bread. The contrasting texture of the pork meat and the toasty bread was also memorable. But still, it did not have that smoky taste I was expecting, given the fact that it was grilled.
Among the FAT dishes I got to taste, Flammenkueche was one of the dishes that shocked me (hold your horses) by the mere mention of “lard foccacia”. But I’ve already had the most badass of the bunch, so I gave it a try, and deeeym! I did not even feel a pang of guilt, thanks to the Smoked Salmon, Arugula, and Maple Balsamic Glaze that altogether achieved a clean and “healthy” taste. A sort of magic if you ask me.
As you see, FAT takes artful plating seriously, which reflects Chef Kel’s passion for bringing the best out of each dish, from the rich flavors, down to the captivating presentation. This is visible even in the Grilled White Chocolate Cheesecake Sandwich, which gave me one of the most inexplicable foodgasm I’ve ever had. I can’t quite describe it just yet, and it’s very unsettling. It may not have made me fat in one sitting, but it surely rendered me speechless!
I admire FAT for its liberal take on food, an experience that keeps all inhibitions at bay. The three-letter name alone is enough to admonish what kind of gastronomic treat you are in, and it’s a refreshing break from all the “organic” and “healthy” marketing shticks that have made us overly conscious to the point of paranoia. At FAT, our three-letter frenemy is celebrated as an ingredient that it really is, hence no calorie is ever wasted as you get the fullest pleasure out of each bite!
FAT Restaurant | Menu
Address: Unit 152 Forbes Town Center, 29th Street corner Rizal Drive, Bonifacio Global City, 1634 Taguig, Philippines
Hours: 9:30am to 10:30pm
Parking: Parking Lot and Valet
Note: This feature, though based on an invitational dinner, was not commissioned, and was written without bias to the restaurant or anyone connected with it. Also, check out what Geoff Review and Hungry Kat have to say about FAT.